Notes from the road episode 3 The high country – part 1.

Some notes from Victoria and the high country.

A long drive from Peak Hill that became a little hairy around Wagga Wagga as there was a bit of conflict between ChatGPT ,Google and Apple maps. And I didn’t do my homework properly . Trouble free down the highway for lunch / rest at Wagga then on the Olympic Highway but somehow or other went in the wrong direction only realizing at Junee and about 30 K out of our way. No choice but to turn around and back track adding an hour extra to that day’s driving. Otherwise a pretty uneventful sort of a day , expensive ; a big caravan and speed limit 110 on the highways does chew the fuel.

Thanks to the diversion, the cavalcade finally found Beechworth Lake Sambell Caravan Park around 7.30pm . Steve the manager was about to guide me in – Kevin from across the way wandered over to say hello. His dog Charlie – a fox terrier with small man syndrome, decided to show the kelpie who was boss much to her disgust.

That was night one in high country Victoria. No television reception whatsoever and as usual dodgy wifi. Good excuse to find a pub. Turns out if you want reception you need to pay $20 to hire a cable from the office. Refundable fortunately. The park is full of families enjoying the freedom of a caravan/camping holiday. But there are rules. No washing to be hung from van awnings etc – must go on the various Hill’s Hoists dotted about. (example below)

Beechworth is really lovely but smoky. It’s warm but nothing like Parkes -high 20s maybe. We had a wander in the Lake Sambell precinct followed by exploration of the town and clocked up 10 K. A beautiful oasis in a really historic setting. The discovery of gold in 1852 precipitated one of the gold mining booms that helped shape early colonial history . The historic precinct is fascinating and meticulously preserved. There’s the courthouse where Ned Kelly was trialed initially. An amazing collection of telegraph communication memorabilia and its evolution. You can still send an original telegram for a price from the telegraph bureau. A lovely town with very friendly people and well worth a visit. As I window shopped along the main drag I was stopped by a couple of red kelpie admirers. I have a home for a puppy from a future litter!

Some 60 K along the road is next stop Bright, a favourite holiday destination in the Snowy Mountain Alpine region. It’s anything but snowing tonight. We are booked at the NRMA Holiday Park for the minimum 5 nights. It’s packed to the rafters with generational holiday makers with teams of small people who come here year after year. The receptionist informs me that my booking was to be from the next day. Not quite sure what happened but I was allocated a spot.

This is a reasonable sized van and maneuvering into a 10 m slab with caravans, tents, cars, long draw bars and every other form of camping equipment, not to mention push bikes, dogs and small children within close proximity, requires finesse. After aborting a few attempts to conquer my allocated site (hoping I wouldn’t embarrass myself,) a good Samaritan called Peter turns up to offer a hand. Even with assistance, we admitted defeat. Luckily, there was a position further down which was navigated again with Peter’s help ensuring the van was absolutely symmetrically positioned on its gravel pad.

I have the setup process down pat now. I even found the fitting for the grey water outlets which was conveniently hiding behind the jack. The procedure involves various steps in whatever order – attaching the grey water pipe from the washing machine, shower, sink into the outlets, connecting the water, power, and gas. I had no sooner let Villanelle out of the cruiser when I was called to account by somebody claiming to be the manager demanding she be on a lead as well as informing me abruptly I had had one warning and next time I will be asked to leave. I absolutely get it…….but she wasn’t that friendly. This park is home for families with thousands of children and push bikes over the summer. The picturesque creek running through the park is the place to be – deck chairs in the water for the parents and kids armed with all manner of blow up props. It’s a beautiful spot and justifiably busy.

A new day and another challenge. Navigating the tricky 25 k of hairpin bends to the summit of Mt Hotham. followed by a ‘moderate’ hike of around 7k from Milky Way to the top of Mount Loch. It’s not called the high country for nothing. There’s a storm brewing and ominous rumbles of thunder getting closer. We huddled for a while in a guest shelter before gambling on the storm going round and pushing on. The Mount Hotham Visitor Centre was in site when the gods hit top gear with the hail. At least with hail, you don’t get wet! The car scored a free wash too. The visitor centre is pretty much deserted save for a couple of ladies also sheltering . I exchange notes with a Polish born hiker from Adelaide here with a group walking tour. Like most people, she is besotted with Villanelle.

Now to a not so desirable incident which is just one of those caravanning things. At one point, one night I became aware that the 240 volt power was off. My checks followed by a facetime consultation with the technician = no resolution. Call in Andy , a local sparky who assured me he would be here at some point. He turned up at 5.30 and close on 2 hours later, had isolated the problem to an internal cable that was causing the safety switch to trip.

Earlier, waiting for Andy we set off on the Canyon Walk along the Ovens River, an easy walk of about two kilometers before looping over a swing bridge and returning along the other side. All was fine until Villanelle spies a lovely spot for a drink. I left the lead on fortunately because no sooner had she set foot in the water was she literally swept away. It was touch and go for a terrifying moment. I struggled to reach her – the rocks were incredibly slippery and I am  ridiculously incapable. Fortunately help arrived in the form of a fellow walker who was able to grab her lead and haul her out.  Luckily tragedy averted and she had a bath if nothing else. It was frightening and another lesson learned for me. Do not let the kelpie loose beside deceptively fast running streams.

So it’s the third Saturday in the month and Bright’s turn for the local artists to showcase their wares at the market. There’s fresh local produce, lots of goodies, jams, preserves honey and all other manner of local paraphernalia . It’s very well patronized and we made some selective purchases.

An advantage of hiring a caravan like this is that you do have backup support when things go wrong. Without the backup of the technicians and the outstanding service from Andy the electrician I don’t really know what I would have or could have done. I guess the incident happening here at busy Bright was fortuitous. Andy, my cycling crazy but very likable electrician, even came back next day and he’s on call should I need him again. But from tomorrow – forget it, a cycling junkie he’s headed to Adelaide with some fellow lycra clad addicts  for the Tour Down Under. 

I am wrapping up this post to the strains of YMCA at the Bright Star Hotel. We ‘explored’ Mt Beauty today – a great gorge walk.

I think Bright is fabulous but at this time of year, peace and quiet is in short supply. That is not in any way a criticism, in fact the opposite. Families with copious numbers of children enjoying the very essence of Australia and given the totally prehistoric wifi, no access to ‘screens’.

Tomorrow – push on to Khancoban!

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